Budapest, the enigmatic, Baroque and Renaissance style capital city of Hungary, that is infamous for stag dos and hen dos alike, but not so much for a chilled, explorative city break. As with any destination, having an unlimited time to explore would be ideal, but if your trip is only a few days long, we’ve got you sorted. This is, in our opinion, the perfect itinerary for 3 days in the historic and pretty city of Budapest!
Our own trip looked similar to this, although with a baby we had to be mindful of how long we were out and about. Given that we have a baby Pebble, I will also be noting how we found these places to be with her in mind!
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Brief overview:
(click on the heading to go to the in-depth itinerary for that section/day)
- Currency
- Cost
- Transport from airport
Day 1 – Buda side of the Danube, specifically Castle District!
- Fisherman’s Bastion and St Matthias Church
- Buda Castle, Castle Gardens and the Budapest History Museum
- Wander Castle District
- See the House of Parliament across the Danube
- Cross the Szechenyi Chain Bridge
- Climb Gellert Hill
Day 2 – The Pest side of the Danube!
- Take Tram 2 down the riverside
- The Shoes on the Danube
- Walk around the House of Parliament and onto Liberty Square
- St Stephen’s Basilica
- House of Terror
Day 3 – Széchenyi Thermal Baths and a chilled day, perhaps with a Danube River cruise!
Tips on travelling with a baby
General Information:
Currency:
Hungary uses the Hungarian Forint (HUF), and 1 Great British Pound is roughly 480 HUF. We rounded this up in our heads to make it easier to figure out, but after a trip to the supermarket we stopped converting it, as you can see what is considered cheap or expensive.
Cost:
We found Budapest extremely cheap to travel to! As with any country or city, it can be as expensive or cheap as you like, but as we travel on a budget, we purposely don’t, for instance, eat at touristy restaurants. We go out and explore side streets and look for prices in the local currency, not in Euros, and we found such delicious places to eat for really low prices. We found the tourist sites not badly priced too, and definitely worth the costs, though we often choose between sites because, with a baby, it’s impossible to do absolutely everything. Obviously if you want to do the Big Things such as a trip to the thermal spa, and a Danube River cruise, then you will be splashing more, but in general, Budapest was a cheap place to visit!
Transport from the airport:
As with most places, you can book a transfer with your hotel if it’s offered and it’s convenient with you, or get a taxi from directly outside the airport. However, the cheapest option, and still extremely convenient, was the Bus 100E. It goes right outside the terminal, and takes you right to the city centre in about 45 minutes, for 2200HUF per person (Pebble went free). There are spaces to stand with a pram, plenty of seats, and the people on board checking our tickets were super friendly and helpful! The bus stops at Kalvin Square, Astoria, and Deak Ferenc Square, all of which are in the city centre, so you’re sure to be somewhere close to your hotel!
Stay:
Firstly, where did we stay? We stayed in the historic hotel, the Danubius Hotel Astoria. It’s down the street from the Liberty Bridge, and we found it a perfect location to do our explorations of the city! Moreover there are restaurants nearby, the rooms are sizely, clean and comfortable, and well priced for a three night stay. They offer breakfast, though we declined because we like to frequent local coffee shops for our breakfast instead. They also offer free cribs for infants (just email to request), and they even brought us a kettle when we asked so that we could prepare Pebble’s feeds.
Day 1: Buda side of the Danube, specifically Castle District
The city is very conveniently spread out over both sides of the river, so it is easiest to explore one side in one day, and the opposite side on another day. Everything is quite spread out, and there is a lot of walking to do, but remember that the city has an EXCELLENT transport system, and is easy to use and navigate! Choose between the metro system (that runs across the river too), the super pretty yellow tram, or the bus services. Buda is the hilly side, offering fantastic views across the city over the Danube River.
The first day of your perfect itinerary for wandering Budapest will be spent in the Castle District. Wander up and down the hilly historical streets, and don’t forget to look up at the beautiful architecture.
1. Watch the city wake up from the Fisherman’s Bastion and St Matthias Church
Opening times:
Fisherman’s Bastion – technically all day and night. Tickets for the upper terraces begin selling at 9am until 7pm.
St Matthias Church – check online first because it does vary depending on religious holidays and events, but generally 9am to 5pm
Cost:
Fisherman’s Bastion – the lower terraces are free all day and night. The upper terraces are free before 9am and after 7pm. From 9am – 7pm it’s 1200 HUF.
St Matthias Church – 2900 HUF for the church. 3400 HUF for the tower.
The bastion is all over instagram as one of the prettiest spots in the city, and I would have to agree. It’s like something out of a fairytale, with towers and terraces and stunning views. Though it looks old, it is from the early 20th century. If you recall the Disney castle, this is something similar!
The ticket office opens at 9am, and you really want to be there early to avoid the crowds (especially if you want those instagrammable shots, because it gets crowded up there).
Little tip: get there for sunrise. You don’t start paying for tickets until 9am and can just go up the steps to catch the view.
Get your tickets for the church nice and early too, as it gets pretty busy in there. The church is beautiful, and there is a bit of a museum on the top floor. You can also purchase tickets for the tower, which has nearly 200 steps to climb! At the top you get a panoramic view over the city.
With a baby:
Fisherman’s Bastion –
We decided to put our little one in her baby carrier to take her around Fisherman’s Bastion. This worked well because there was no bulky pram to push through the crowds, and we could climb the steps more easily. We left the pram at the bottom of the entrance up to the upper terraces then fetched it when we were done.
St Matthias Church –
Not so easy! We put Pebble back in her pram as she was tired in the baby carrier and getting agitated. Firstly we had to carry the pram up the steps into the church (up to the doors, and then down from the doors inside). Pushing her around the church was fine, and then we took it in turns to go up a spiral staircase to the little museum. We opted out of the church tower, as there was no way either of us was carrying her up 200 steps!!
2. Learn some history at Buda Castle, the Castle Gardens, and the Budapest History Museum
Opening times:
Castle and gardens – all day and night
Museum – 10am – 6pm Tuesdays to Sunday (closed on Mondays)
Cost:
Castle and gardens – free
Museum & St Stephen’s Hall – 4500 HUF
Whilst the gardens and the castle grounds are free to visit, I 100% recommend getting a ticket (in the office just past the entrance to the gardens) to visit the museum. It costs 4500 HUF for a combined ticket which includes the museum and St Stephen’s Hall, which is inside the museum itself. Give yourself a few hours to tour the museum and take everything in, because the history is really interesting! Once finished in the museum, take yourself up to the panoramic terrace which overlooks the city, and gives a tremendous view that stretches down the Danube and over Pest.
With a baby:
So… we were told at the ticket office that it was all pram friendly, and to go up through the gardens and access the lifts to get to the museum entrance. Whilst the paths through the garden were mostly flatly paved, there were some steps that we had to bump her up and down, but this isn’t the end of the world. The lifts were great. The issue came inside the old part of the museum, where we had to leave our pram by some coat racks, and put her in the baby carrier. Without that, we would not have been able to get around, so be aware of this if you want to see the whole museum. The main parts have lifts, but the older parts do not.
3. Wander around Castle District and grab something scrummy for lunch
After a busy morning, lunch is definitely deserved! We wandered up and down streets and found some cute coffee shops and a sandwich place for lunch. There’s so much around so just see what take your fancy!
With a baby:
We LOVED wandering the streets of Budapest! I will say that in terms of being pram-friendly, the Pest side is definitely easier to navigate. Several times on our hunt for food and the bottom of the hill we had to turn back and find a different street. Some streets have no pavements, others are just steps all the way down. Others are literally just steps, no road in between pavements. As a result, we walked a LOT of steps that day!!
4. See that iconic reflection of the House of Parliament in the Danube
This is quite a sight. The majestic, imposing building with its impossible number of spires stands proudly on the Danube riverbank on the Pest side, and there’s no better place to see it in all its glory than to go down to the river on the Buda side. On a nice day it is reflected in the water and it looks both beautiful and impressive in a stately way.
5. Cross the majestic Széchenyi Chain Bridge to the Pest side
An easy walk downstream to the bridge, which is guarded by lions either side of the busy road, and two imposing towers linking Buda to Pest. This bridge is important in the city because it is the oldest one, and the first bridge to link Buda and Pest and create Budapest. It opened in 1849 and it’s a gorgeous feat of architectural engineering. Walking across it gives a lush view down the Danube, and over the city as a whole.
6. Climb Gellert Hill for one of the best views over Budapest
Opening times:
All day and night
Cost:
Free
The highest point in the city, and gives the most wonderful view across it all! There are multiple viewpoints on this hill, but be aware that the citadel at the summit is undergoing reconstruction, so several pathways and viewpoints are temporarily closed off to the public. There are still plenty of nice paths to follow and views to see though!
Tip: Adjust this in your itinerary depending on what you want your experience to be. A lot of people recommend sunrise or sunset as the light cast over the city is incredible. However early morning is very pretty too (this is when we went).
With a baby:
We used the baby carrier with Pebble, as there are a LOT of steps and steep inclines. It isn’t a hard climb up there, but there are harder parts, and a pram is definitely not convenient here.
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Day 2: The Pest side of the Danube!
Whilst I loved the history of Buda, I personally enjoyed Pest even more. It’s livelier without being full of crowds, and has all the gorgeous architecture that Buda has, with streets that are easier to navigate. Of course, I am saying this as a mother with a pram to bump up and down streets, so perhaps I’m biased! The second day of your Budapest itinerary will be spent in vibrant Pest!
1. Take the bright yellow Tram Number 2 down the riverside
Cost:
350 HUF for a single ticket
Apparently one of the prettiest tram routes in the world, this tram runs alongside the Danube, and gives a perfect opportunity to hop on and let yourself be taken to the House of Parliament from Liberty Bridge like a local! Brilliantly convenient to visit the tourist destinations on the riverbank, such as Central Market Hall, the Shoes on the Danube, and the House of Parliament.
With a baby:
So confession time – we did not take this tram. We walked absolutely everywhere and really clocked up the step count. Ben and I wanted to take this tram, but upon seeing it, and the MASSIVE step to get up into it, and the crowds on board, we decided that it wouldn’t be the best idea with a baby in a pram. If we return to Budapest, this is something I would like to do.
2. Take a poignant walk alongside the Shoes on the Danube
Opening times:
Anytime
Cost:
Free.
This is not a chirpy place to visit. The cast iron shoes are replicas of 1940s shoes belonging to the Jewish men, women and children who were lined up alongside the river, ordered to remove their shoes, and shot into the river. It is a place that holds memories and tears, and it is both tragic and moving. People leave flowers and other commemoration items. The shoes are all different sizes and types, and after seeing them I wanted to pick up my baby and hug her tight, especially seeing the children’s shoes.
Remember to be respectful here. People come here to remember and pay tribute. I saw tourists posing with them and just… be mindful when there.
3. Stroll around the House of Parliament and then onto Liberty Square
Opening times:
Anytime
Cost:
Free
This area is really important in Budapest. It’s a park surrounded by grand buildings, and was once a site of a prison. Now it contains several memorials, and contentious ones at that. Have a wander around, and read all the signs, because it shows different narratives of what happened in Hungary during WWII. The most poignant one is the Living Memorial, in front of the Memorial for Victims of the German Occupation. This has been a site of great controversy, and it angered the Jewish community as it appears to absolve Hungary of its involvement of the Holocaust. As a result, people have been leaving items belonging to victims of the Holocaust, with signs and letters and photographs explaining their significance.
Again, be mindful when visiting, it is a place of great significance and meaning to a lot of people.
4. Gawp at the pretty St Stephen’s Basilica
Opening times:
Inner church – 9am to 5.45pm Monday to Saturday; 1pm to 5.45pm Sunday
Panoramic terrace – 9am to 7pm Monday to Sunday
Cost:
Inner church – 2300 HUF
Terrace – 4300 HUF
Not far from Liberty Square, the basilica is an impressive site. Approach it from St Stephen’s Square and see it standing tall and pretty at the end, especially when the sun shines on it. I cannot comment on the inside as we opted to not go inside – there were a lot of steps for our pram!
5. Have a traditional Hungarian lunch!
There are a LOT of lunch options in this area, so stick around and find something yummy to eat!
6. Visit the most horrifying museum – The House of Terror
Opening times:
10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday
Cost:
4000 HUF
This place is… incredible. It will send shivers down your spine, but you absolutely must go. In the former headquarters of both the Nazi-affiliated Arrow Cross party and then the Soviet AVH secret police, the building has been turned into a memorial to commemorate the victims of two terror regimes. In the museum you will learn about life in Budapest in 1944 under the rule of the terrifying Arrow Cross, and then the long-lasting Communist regime of the Soviets after they ‘liberated’ Hungary in 1945. Finally in 1990 Hungary gained independence, and the museum seeks to ensure that not only are the perpetrators named, but that the victims are remembered, and with them the freedom that Hungary finally experiences. An absolute must-see.
With a baby:
Absolutely accessible. There are lifts between the floors, and no steps at all to navigate. Pebble was SO good in her pram. There is also a café by the ticket booth, so we took her in after our museum tour to feed her, and changed her in the disabled toilet too.
Day 3: Széchenyi Thermal Baths and a chilled day, perhaps with a Danube River cruise!
We didn’t go to the thermal baths because again, baby. She’s only 4 months old, and most places, for obvious reasons, need children to be potty trained. They’re busy, popular places, and if we return to the city I would definitely like to go and visit!
The final part of your Budapest itinerary is about chilling and enjoying the city, exploring anywhere you haven’t already been, checking out the Central Market Hall, and coffee shop hopping!
Also, I hear a river cruise comes highly recommended, particularly at sunset! There are so many to choose from, simply wander down the river on the Pest side, ask the ticket sellers, and pick one you like.
Tips on travelling with a baby:
1. Nappies and baby wipes can be bought at any supermarket
Of which there are loads! We frequented the Aldi right down the street from our hotel.
2. Baby carrier
Definitely bring a baby carrier if you have one and like to wear Baby.
3. Take midday breaks
Especially if in the summer! We took Pebble back to the hotel for an hour after our morning activities. This proved invaluable to our experience there with her – we could play with her properly, she could eat without distractions, and take a good nap in the crib if she wanted. This stopped over-tiredness from being a problem, and meant we could take her back out all energised for the afternoon.
4. Pack a travel changing mat
We have a thin, foldable one that goes into the bottom of the pram. Sometimes baby changing facilities aren’t available so one of us would hold a blanket around the pram for privacy, and the other would lay Pebble down on the mat in the pram and change her. We do this in the UK too, and we find it easier than navigating toilets to be honest.
5. Don’t overpack your baby bag for your days out
We found that our little bag that hangs on the back of the pram was perfect, and all we needed. The changing mat folds neatly under the pram with a blanket and a jacket for Pebble. The bag holds two bottles of ready-prepped milk, a change of clothes (a vest and a onesie), a couple of nappies and bags, and a pack of wipes. Sorted. There’s nothing worse than having to lug a pram, a baby, and an overstuffed backpack around! The midday breaks helped with this too because we could repack if needed.
6. Ask at restaurants about taking a pram inside
I never like to assume that there is space for our pram, so I always ask out of curtesy. 9 times out of 10 they will usher us inside, but some places are just too small. Luckily we went in October and it was still warm enough to eat outside, but bear it in mind.
And there you have it. Budapest is an incredible city, with so much history and architecture and viewpoints to enjoy! If you’re into nightlife, it has a great night time scene too! This itinerary is jam-packed, but Budapest has so much to offer for any traveller!
If you’re a reader like me, check out my post for a recommendation for a fantastic book to read in Budapest!
Chat with us!
Have you visited Budapest? What was a highlight for you? Let me know in the comments, and share your travel stories!
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